Life Is with People

The title of this week’s post is borrowed from a book I first read over 50 years ago. In the 1940s and 50s, a number of books were published evoking life in the shtetls (the Jewish rural communities of Eastern Europe), a life that was utterly destroyed in the Shoah. The most famous and the most warmly received of these books was Life Is with People, which grew out of a broad academic study at Columbia University led by Margaret Mead. There were two things I did not know at the time I read it. The first was that its idealized and romanticized picture of shtetl life was largely rejected and scorned by academics: it is a very warm and fuzzy read, but there are apparently many places where it sacrifices accuracy on the altar of sentimentality. The second was that the co-author, anthropologist Mark Zborovski, was, when he wasn’t at his day job, an influential Russian spy. I kid you not. You can read more about the book and about Zborovski’s extraordinary story, in this article from Jewish Review of Books.

The reason why I have borrowed this title is because Micha’el and Tslil’s experiences since they first arrived in the village of Penamacor five months ago have demonstrated very clearly what it means to be welcomed into a small, close-knit community. I had been thinking for some time about writing about this aspect of village life, and events this past week helped me decide that now is the time. Even before the kids moved in, in the few days I spent house-hunting last June, I already felt some of this sense of community. The estate agent (realtor) who showed me the house we eventually bought (Eventually? From first viewing to transfer of ownership was only 55 days!) is Anabella Gaspar. a very friendly woman in her 30s with whom I quickly developed a warm relationship, even though her English was marginally less good than my Portuguese. We did a lot of gormless smiling at each other.

We had corresponded for a few weeks before my trip: she in English (courtesy of Google Translate), and I in Portuguese (likewise). In one afternoon, accompanied by an English-speaking colleague, she showed me three properties. The first remarkable fact was that all three properties met the criteria I had given her. (My experience in Israel is that estate agents always believe they know better than you what you are looking for…or, rather, they believe that their powers of persuasion are so remarkable that they will be able to sell you whatever property they most want to move, regardless of your needs.)

At the end of the viewings, she gave me a three-page questionnaire, inviting me to comment in detail on what I had liked and disliked about the properties I had seen. This is something I’ve never encountered before, but it really makes sense. In our case, we bought one of the three houses I viewed; in the event, however, that we had rejected all three, the agency already had a clearly-documented and detailed analysis of what we were looking for.

In the following weeks, we continued to correspond, while Bernice and I waited for the results of a ‘check-up’ we ordered for the house, for confirmation that the renovations we wanted were feasible, and for a detailed estimate. During this time, Anabella was anxiously pressing us for a decision, but always in slightly formal and very polite language, her emails always beginning: ‘Dear Mr David…’

When the sale was completed, Anabella sent me an extravagantly grateful email. When, a couple of months later, the kids moved in, she came round with a bottle of wine as a token of her gratitude. She was not to know that we couldn’t drink it because of kashrut, and the kids wouldn’t drink it because they don’t drink alcohol; it was a lovely thought.

Over the following weeks, she proceeded to take the kids under her wing. She accompanied them on their first trip to the health clinic, and introduced them to all the key people. She became their go-to person for advice on all matters Penamacorean. During our first stay in November, when Tslil needed to go to A&E one Sunday morning (Don’t worry: all was OK), the kids phoned Anabella to ask her which hospital she advised them to go to. (There are two fairly equidistant, about 35 minutes’ drive away.) She immediately came round to the house, with her husband, who happens to be an ambulance driver. They advised on which hospital to use, and we were only just able to persuade the husband that he didn’t need to drive in front of Micha’el all the way to hospital, because google maps would get him there.

And then there are the neighbours. Going up the hill, our immediate neighbours are a couple perhaps a little younger than us. The husband, Joce, was born in Paris, but moved to Penamacor in his childhood and was raised here. He spent his working life in Paris, and then retired to Penamacor. We reckon they bought a row of four houses (which I never even managed while playing Monopoly) and converted them into a single home, including putting a covered swimming pool in the back garden. Every detail of that description should indicate to you how little they have in common with Micha’el and Tslil, and yet… They have proven to be wonderful neighbours, starting with inviting the kids in for tea. This led to a bizarre conversation. They introduced themselves in Portuguese: “We are Joce and Lucrecia – Portugal”, and so the kids introduced themselves as: “Micha’el and Tslil – Israel…and what is your family name?” “Portugal,” was the puzzled and rather puzzling reply. Yes, their family name is indeed Portugal, and the sign bearing that name on the wall of their home is not, as we originally thought, evidence of extreme patriotism, but rather a routine name plaque. On reflection, ‘England’ and ‘Britain’ are both surnames.

When a friend brought the kids a sack of citrus fruit last week, Tslil took a bag of oranges in to Lucrecia, who immediately asked: “Would you like me to make some marmalade and give it to you?”

The kids’ car was due for its annual roadworthiness test last week. This is a 1991 Opel Astra that they bought from a couple they are friendly with, who are in the middle of a period of spending a couple of months in one country then moving to another. In each country they visit, they buy an old car and use it to get around. Micha’el broke off a wing mirror last week on the dirt track to the land, when he was negotiating a particularly treacherous pothole after torrential storms a couple of weeks before we arrived. Obviously they needed to replace the wing mirror before the test, and we suggested that, before the test, it would be wisest to get the car checked, and have any necessary work done in advance. The testing centre is in Castelo Branco, and Micha’el would not want to have the car fail, be forced to leave it in a garage (repair shop) he didn’t know, and have to travel back to Penamacor without the car, then back again to Castelo Branco. Much better to find a local mechanic. Bernice sensibly suggested asking the neighbours, which Micha’el did. Joce was indeed able to recommend a reliable garage, and insisted on leading Micha’el there (10 minutes outside the village) and introducing him to the mechanic, waiting while the car was checked in, and driving Micha’el back. After a couple of days, when Micha’el had not heard from the mechanic, he went next door to ask for a phone number. Joce tried phoning, but was unable to reach the mechanic. Joce then launched a village-wide search to locate him. I believe he had gone to his brother’s smallholding. Anyway, when he was finally reached, he assured Micha’el that everything was progressing well. There were a number of replacement parts needed, and he had ordered them all. Micha’el made it clear to him that he would have expected the mechanic to submit a quote and get Micha’el’s authorisation before starting work and ordering parts, but, naturally, Micha’el agreed to the work, all of which was essential to pass the test. Joce had heard Micha’el’s end of the conversation, and immediately offered to lend Micha’el the money to pay the mechanic. Micha’el assured him that the money was not a problem, but it was important to establish the principle of getting prior approval for work. When the work was finally done, Joce offered to take Micha’el back to the mechanic, but Micha’el explained that I was able to take him.

Incidentally, the car passed the test with flying colours, the tester assuring Micha’el that he had “a very good car there.”

I know that the Portugals have a daughter and grandchildren in Paris, and I imagine they hope that neighbours are looking out for their family in the same way as they are looking out for our family.

These are two extreme examples, but, walking around the village with the kids, and listening to the stories they have to tell, it is clear that they have been made to feel very welcome, by neighbours and nodding acquaintances, bureaucrats and shopkeepers. It is very good to know that our children are living, and our grandson is growing up, in a genuine community.

Speaking of our grandson, he went down to the land yesterday with his father and us, and, while he seemed a little concerned about the condition of the soil, he was very pleased with the new growth.

If you are interested in learning more about Tao’s plans for the land, you can follow, subscribe to, and like his family’s youtube channel.

Feeding the Stomach and the Brain

The challenge in writing my blog from Portugal is that much of our day is spent with Tao; so, when I sit down to write, my mind is filled with thoughts of him. I am acutely aware that banging on about one’s amazing grandchild can be very boring for the reader, so, instead, let me dedicate this week’s post to……my amazing children.

When Bernice and I first started talking about my then upcoming big birthday, I really didn’t want to make an event of it. I was eventually persuaded that changing your prefix is not insignificant. (That extraordinarily clumsy phrase ‘changing your prefix’ is a leaden attempt to capture the essence of the phrase in Hebrew. Area dialing codes in the Israeli landline phone system consist of zero plus a single digit – 02 for Jerusalem, 03 for Tel Aviv and so on. These codes are known as ‘prefixes’. The big transitional birthdays, from one decade to another – in my case, from 69 to 70 – are referred to as ‘changing prefix’.)

A large part of the reason why I was initially reluctant was that I didn’t want to celebrate without the family all being together. Our solution was to have a modest evening at home with our local friends, and then for Esther and Maayan to fly out to Portugal for a week, overlapping with our visit, so that we could celebrate as a family.

So the seven of us enjoyed the whole of last week together…and it was wonderful. The kids all went out into the country, to walk and do a little sightseeing, and also went to Micha’el and Tslil’s land a couple of times, leaving us to babysit. Apart from that, for most of the time, we didn’t do anything much, but just sitting around of an evening with the family was very special. Tao shared himself out between us very fairly, so that we scarcely ever came to blows, and I got to indulge in one of my favourite spectator sports, which is watching Esther and Micha’el – in recent years, Maayan and Tslil as well – simply enjoying each other’s company. To have two children who are, in many ways, so very different from each other, yet who are so close to each other, is a source of pure joy to me.

During the week, we all went to a vegan restaurant in Castelo Branco for what I imagined was to be a celebratory meal. (Good grief – I’ve turned into someone who blogs about what he’s eating!) I only mention this because we actually were photographed together, and I have been asked, offline, to provide some photos of the kids. Not the least enjoyable part of the meal for me was the bill: a mere 52 euro (under 200 shekels) for six adults.

Happy Families

The meal was initially made even more special for me by the fact that I was anticipating my birthday surprise. I didn’t know quite what to expect, although I was praying I wouldn’t get waiters bringing to the table a ‘shaving foam’ dessert replete with sparklers, while singing Happy Birthday, in Portuguese, off key. As the meal progressed, it gradually dawned on me that nobody was going to make a big thing – or indeed even a small thing – of my birthday. I can only hope that I managed to conceal my disappointment from the others.

However, I needn’t have worried, because the actual celebrations took place at home on shabbat. (Yes, our house in Penamacor does already feel like home, which is a lovely feeling, and a great relief, since when we bought it Bernice hadn’t seen it yet.) The kids took total charge, with the exception of Bernice’s signature curry and rice on Friday night and lasagna for shabbat lunch. We were also allowed to provide the wine.

Every Pesach during my childhood, my father, of blessed memory, would order some bottles of Israeli Carmel hock to serve at the festive meals. At that time, Carmel winery produced kiddush (sacramental) wine – syrupy-sweet red – and one or two dry wines. Buying the hock represented the triumph of optimism over experience: every year, Dad would open and pour the wine in eager anticipation, take an initial sip, and swear that he was not going to buy any next year…but he always did.

Since then, of course, Israeli wine has undergone several transformations, and is now at the point where many of its wineries have won international awards. Bernice and I always open a bottle for shabbat. I am guided in my purchases by a comment from Adam Montefiore – the English-speaking voice of Israeli wine – who advises that if you pay less than 25 shekels for a bottle of wine, you are paying principally for the glass bottle, and if you pay more than 150 shekels, you are paying principally for the label. Fortunately, there are many really enjoyable wines in the 35-65 shekel range, which is our particular sweet spot (although I can hear one or two of my readers tutting about our cheap taste).

When we first came to Portugal, in October, we picked up a few bottles of Portuguese wine at the kosher food shop in Lisbon. On our first two shabbatot, we tried two different wines: the first was execrable, the second barely drinkable. Some hasty online research revealed a European Kosher wine supplier based in Brussels, who ships throughout Europe, with free delivery if you buy a case (which can be mixed). So, I sat down one evening and looked through their list. I decided to give up on Portuguese wine but to stay with Iberia, so I ordered 12 assorted bottles of Spanish wines. I also followed my usual policy, of starting with the cheaper bottles, and only moving up-market if we didn’t enjoy them. A very sturdy and well-protected case arrived 3 days later, and, so far, we have enjoyed the bottles we have tried. To be honest, nothing has been as good as the Israeli wine we drink at home, but I regard this as an ongoing long-term research project, and it seems a little ridiculous to pay more here to drink Israeli wine than we do in Israel.

Anyway, back to our celebratory Friday night meal. After we had eaten in Castelo Branco, Esther (on the right in the photo), Maayan (on the left) and Micha’el went off to do their own thing, while Bernice and I drove home with Tslil and Tao. It transpired that ‘their own thing’ was buying the ingredients for the shabbat meals. Esther rose to the challenge of cooking in a strange kitchen magnificently, serving a chestnut and mushroom soup that both nodded at Portuguese cuisine’s love of the chestnut and was deliciously warming and comforting.

She then excelled herself with a dessert that, if you have a sweet tooth, was to die for (and, if you have several sweet teeth and no self-control, to die of) – a chocolate and caramel tart, served with whipped cream lifted by a hefty slug of amaretto.

This delicious meal was accompanied by an original creation from Micha’el, which I will come to in a minute. But just before I do, I have to give you a little background.

After our first decade in Israel, when people asked me what I missed of Britain, I could honestly reply that there was very little, apart from BBC Radio 4. In those days, we would listen to BBC World Service on longwave radio. Fortunately, there was a powerful signal relay from Jordan, which meant tolerable reception in Jerusalem. There were a couple of programmes broadcast on the World Service that I loved: One of these was Round Britain Quiz – a cryptic general knowledge quiz between teams of celebrity experts. In its heyday, the programme boasted several competitors whose erudition and powers of deduction were worthy of the questions set: Irene Thomas and John Julius Norwich being the most worthy. Over the years, the teams have become much less impressive, but the questions have pretty much maintained their high standard. There are only eight questions in each half-hour episode, but each question is multi-part, and answering it usually involves a fair amount of discussion among the team – and often hints from the question-master. If that sounds like your thing, you can sample the programme here.

As well as trying to answer quiz questions, I am, as some of you will know, very fond of setting quizzes. Over the years, I have carved for myself a niche, creating bespoke quizzes for family celebrations. When I started, 50+ years ago, this involved spending days in the reference library. These days, the research can be carried out online, which is much faster and more efficient (but less satisfying, to be honest). The art of a good bespoke quiz is to make it difficult enough to be challenging, but not so difficult as to make people give up, and also to tailor it sufficiently to the interests and strengths of the celebrant (the birthday boy or girl, or anniversary couple), so that they can do better than anyone else, while not making everyone else feel excluded. Apart from the frustration of occasionally having to reject a question as being too challenging for the audience, I really enjoy the craft of themed quiz construction.

Micha’el (in the middle in the photo, flanked by Tao and Tslil) presented us on Friday night with an exquisite quiz, just sufficiently challenging to keep us fully occupied between courses, but ultimately solvable. Everyone pitched in – except Tao, but I’m prepared to cut him some slack at this stage – and, between us, we cracked all of the questions.

Micha’el had brilliantly devised questions that played to some of my strengths; he had also included some questions that required a knowledge of Hebrew, and some that were focussed on Jewish tradition, while others were genuinely general knowledge. It was tremendous fun to solve the riddles, and immensely gratifying to see Micha’el sharing some of my passion for the genre, and matching, if not exceeding, my talent.

Let me leave you with a taste of the quiz. All of the questions were to do with 7 or 70. Here is one – general knowledge – question. If you can find the letters for the spaces under the pictures, you may then be able to fill in the answers 1–7. Please feel free to comment.

If you want to see what Micha’el does when he isn’t setting fiendish quizzes, you can follow his,Tslil’s and Tao’s youtube channel.

10 Months, 3 Weeks, 5 Days and Counting

Time traveller alert. This post is being written not in retrospect, but, more or less, in real time, because…

I am writing this sitting at one end of the table in our Penamacor kitchen, while Tao eats his supper at the other end of the table, watching me peck away at the keys, and every time I look up at him he rewards me with a beaming smile. As I captioned the video I sent my brother earlier today – a video of Tao leafing through the wonderful baby book Peepo! and reading it aloud in fluent gibberish – ‘In case you were wondering why we’re here.’

Bernice and I arrived on Sunday night after a very uneventful direct flight from Tel Aviv to Lisbon, and a two-and-a-half hour drive to Penamacor. We left very cold, wet weather in Maale Adumim, fully expecting that the one benefit of such wintry weather would be a kind of acclimiatization in advance for a Penamacor winter.

How wrong we were! We landed in a Lisbon bathing in the last rays of a bright, warm sun, and our entire drive was through a mild and still winter evening. This was in strong contrast to our drive back to Lisbon airport in November, which was through alternate driving rain and very patchy fog. On balance, I wouldn’t recommend driving, at 3:00AM, along a road you are not very familiar with, a road that in some sections winds through wooded valleys, where you occasionally come out of a bend and drive straight into a bank of fog, all the time hoping that your calculation of how much time you need to allow in order to catch your flight has sufficiently taken into account driving conditions. In the end, that journey ended safely and with time to spare; nevertheless, this week’s drive was much more relaxed, not least because it was towards our family and not away from them, and because it would not really make any difference if we arrived a couple of hours later than planned. In fact, we arrived more or less at the time I had expected, 10:15PM local time, which felt to us like 12:15AM the next day, of course. Tao was, naturally, fast asleep, and Tslil had also gone to bed. She very wisely takes advantage of Tao’s sleep pattern, and, no doubt partly for that reason, looks very well.

So, our welcoming committee consisted of Micha’el, who is suffering with a cold and sore throat that are leaving him more tired than usual, and Esther and Ma’ayan, our daughter and other daughter-in-law, who are here for a week, to help me continue my birthday celebrations. You can, I am sure, imagine how good it feels, for all the family to be together, especially for all of us to be together without having to worry about organizing a wedding, for a change. This is pure quality time for (I hope) all of us.

After chatting for a while, and enjoying a cup of tea, Bernice and I left for our bed.

When we were planning our first trip to the kids, we decided to take a leaf out of my parents’ book. In the 1980s and 90s, my Mum and Dad, of blessed memory, would visit us in the Jerusalem suburb of East Talpiot for 2 weeks, once a year. At the time we lived in a three-room, 55 m2 apartment. That’s under 600 ft2, if that means more to you. If neither of the numbers means much to you, then let me give you a few indicators. Indicator 1: If we had not had direct access from the flat to the communal garden (a large grassed area with a couple of trees), and if we did not live in a country where we (and particularly Micha’el and the dog) could be outside for most of the year, then it is likely that not all us would have survived the 9 years we lived there. Indicator 2: Bernice and I slept on a futon, because our bedroom was so small that it was impossible to open the wardrobe until the futon had been folded up. Even with the futon closed, we could not both get dressed at the same time. Indicator 3: We could vacuum the entire apartment with the cleaner plugged into one socket, and without using an extension lead. That should be sufficient indicators for you to get the idea. The first few times my parents visited, they slept in the kids’ bedroom, which was a little larger than ours. However, it didn’t take them long to decide that they would rather stay at the hotel in Ramat Rachel, and spend all day every day with us.

One of the shortcomings of our Penamacor house is that there is only one toilet and bathroom (combined). For six adults and a baby, this seems like a challenge, albeit a first-world challenge. Another shortcoming, and one that is more significant for us, is the location of the combined bathroom and toilet: on the ground floor. Once the kids have moved onto the land, we plan to convert the third bedroom into a bathroom. Until then, for those of us whose nights are punctuated by not infrequent trips to the bathroom (I can already see some of you men, and maybe even some women, nodding in total understanding), the prospect of traipsing down the 15 stairs and through the salon in a Penamacor winter in the small hours, after the wood fire has burnt out, is not particularly attractive. The fact that there is an outside chance that, at whatever hour, Tao will be awake and downstairs is a significant compensation, but even so…

I hope you can understand why Bernice and I decided that, rather than staying with the kids and Tao in the house, we would stay in Penamacor’s only hotel. It is still not clear to us why there is a hotel in a one-horse town like Penamacor, and, having now stayed there twice, it isn’t clear to me how the hotel stays in business, because, for most of my stay last June (when I came over alone to look at property), there seemed to be only 20% occupancy, and, when Bernice and I stayed in November, we never saw more than two other families on any one day. I am beginning to suspect that the entire hotel is just an elaborate front for Portuguese mafia money laundering.

Having said that, it is a very pleasant hotel: the staff are very friendly and helpful, all the rooms have balconies with lovely open views of the surrounding country and the distant hills, and not only does the breakfast that our rules of kashrut prevent us eating look very good, but the buffet table also boasts a good selection of quality fresh fruit, as well as plain yoghurts and a selection of Kellogg’s cereals, both of which are on the kosher list issued by the Lisbon Jewish community. The trend of the last 30 or so years, of hotels offering a more healthy, non-cooked, breakfast alternative, has proved a boon to the observant Jewish guest in a non-kosher hotel.

The view from our hotel balcony

After a couple of days here, we feel, on the whole, much more at home than during our previous trip, even though the entire experience still seems (and, I suspect, always will) very much ‘other’. We have no dramatic plans for this visit. People keep suggesting that we visit Lisbon, or Porto, or the Algarve, or Madrid, or Gibraltar, but, for the moment, spending an evening sitting and schmoozing with the family, and agreeing to babysit Tao while the four kids spend a half-day hiking in the nearby national park is all we need, or would ask for. Promise not to tell the kids, who think we are bring remarkably selfless, but enjoying a few hours with Tao is, as I suggested at the start, the reason for this entire venture. And now, if you’ll excuse me, I have some rather pressing business involving some increasingly complex shapes and a posting box.

Don’t forget that you can learn more about Micha’el and Tslil’s plans, and how they are progressing, by following, subscribing to, liking and otherwise spreading the word about their youtube channel.

Under-achievers of the World, Unite!

Let’s start this week with a clarification, for the benefit of my transatlantic readers. When I speak of “The Times”, I am referring to the newspaper that, since 1 January, 1788, has carried that name – The Times – on its masthead. Note that the distinctive font that has been used on that masthead since 1929 is known as Times New Roman, and not as Times of London New Roman.

Should I ever want to refer to The New York Times (which is 63 years younger than The Times, despite its pseudo-Gothic font), I shall call it The New York Times.

In short, there is only one The Times.

Now we’ve got that out of the way….

On my birthday last week, the Crossword Editor of The Times gave me, albeit unwittingly, the best present I could have asked of him: I was able to solve that day’s cryptic crossword in just over 11 minutes. In my prime, from the mid-70’s to the mid 80’s of the last century, I set myself the target of solving The Times crossword every day in under half an hour, and managed that often enough (and failed often enough) for 30 minutes to be a meaningful target. I believe my best ever time was around 7 minutes. Then, of course, in 1986 we came to Israel, and over the next 32 years I only occasionally attempted the crossword. Two years ago, when I retired, I bought myself a book of Times cryptic crosswords, and was horrified to discover how rusty I had become. We recently took out an online subscription to The Times and, as a man of leisure, I now indulge myself every day again.

Those of you who know me well won’t need to me to tell you how self-satisfied that birthday crossword solution time made me. Until, that is, I remembered what (or rather who) I had already decided would be the subject of this week’s post. Because I want to tell you about the greatest man in Penamacor’s history.

Your expectations of a quiet, backwater village of 2000 inhabitants having produced a man of stature are probably no greater than mine were, but let me issue a trigger warning. If you have a tendency to suffer from feelings of inadequacy or low self-esteem, do not read on, because I want to introduce you to Antonio Nunes Ribeiro Sanches. If you are saying to yourself ‘Who?’ then you can already join me in feeling inadequate. His is a name that should be familiar to us as one of the significant clinician–scientist–philosopher–political theorist–socio-cultural commentators of 18th Century Europe. There is a theory that, had he been born in, or developed his career in, or focused his attention on, European states less marginal geographically than Portugal and Russia, he would be far better known than he is.

Sanches was born in Penamacor in March 1699, the son of New Christians, or conversos. The Municipal Museum of Penamacor devotes one wall to his memorabilia and artefacts. (The museum is itself an interesting institution, and I must make a note to tell you more about it some other time.) The display includes his baptismal certificate, both a photocopy of the formal record in the Genealogical Library of Lisbon, and a copy in his own hand.

This was, clearly, an important document, asserting as it did that he was a member of the Catholic Church. However, this was seldom enough for New Christians to escape the clutches of the Inquisition. A century earlier, the Catholic Church had introduced the concept of limpieza de sangre (purity of blood). For anyone who was not able to prove the ‘purity’ of their ancestry, an official baptism was not proof against the many professional, vocational and academic restrictions imposed on Jews, and, ultimately, was not proof against investigation by, and even torture and death at the hands of, the Inquisition.  

Sanches’ father was a wealthy merchant, and his two uncles were, respectively, a doctor in Lisbon and a well-known jurist. When Antonio left home for the city of Guarda, to further his education in music and letters, he became interested in medicine, although his father preferred the ring of ‘My son, the lawyer’ to that of ‘My son, the doctor’. The son spent 3 years studying Arts, Law, Philosophy and Medicine at the University of Coimbra, but he found the teaching old-fashioned and the students reactionary and boorish. And so he went to Spain, to study medicine in Salamanca University for three years.

Returning to Portugal, he practiced medicine, first with his uncle, caring for patients suffering from the yellow fever epidemic that killed 6000 in Lisbon (about 3% of the city’s population) and later in practice on his own, before, at the age of 26, he decided that life under the Inquisition was too unsettling, and also that he wanted to expand his horizons; he spent time in Italy before heading to London, where he attended medicine and mathematics lectures, until the English climate drove him back to the Continent. Clearly, it is possible to feel oneself a citizen of Europe even without the EU. In France, he learnt that one of the medical giants of the age, Boerhaave, was lecturing in Leyden in the Netherlands. Having enrolled at the university, Sanches spent three years attending lectures in philosophy, chemistry, anatomy, physics and pharmacology, as well as Boerhaave’s medical lectures. Sanches kept his existing medical qualification a secret, until his studies were almost complete. At that point, the Russian Tsarina Anna Ivanovna requested of Boerhaave that he send her three of his best pupils, for whom honorary posts in her empire were waiting. Boerhaave selected Sanches as one of the three, and urged him to complete his Bachelor’s degree. When Sanches revealed that he was already a qualified doctor and could leave immediately, an astonished Boerhaave refunded all his tuition fees.

So, at the age of 32, Sanches found himself chief medical doctor of Moscow. Two years later, he was called to practice in St Petersburg, close to the Russian court. A year later, he became First Doctor of the Imperial Army, and saw active service in several campaigns. In 1740, when the Tsarina was taken ill, and her physicians could not agree on a diagnosis, they wrote to Sanches, describing her symptoms. On the basis solely of that letter, Sanches correctly diagnosed kidney stones, and warned that the Tsarina would be unlikely to survive. When he arrived at court too late to treat her, and the autopsy confirmed his diagnosis, which none of the other physicians had made, Sanches became, at the age of 40, the official medical doctor of the Russian court.

For the next seven years, Sanches balanced a brilliant clinical career at court with attempting to navigate a path through the intrigues and socio-political upheaval over the imperial succession that gripped Russia until Catherine II restored order. During this time, Sanches was appointed a State Counsellor, but at the same time he was accused of Judaism and, at one point, imprisoned. Eventually, Catherine granted his request to leave Russia, in 1747.

He headed for Paris, where, from the age of 48, Sanches devoted his last 36 years largely to writing. During this time, he experienced financial difficulties, which were mitigated by a generous annual pension from the Portuguese government, and a further pension granted by Catherine II.

His written output included what was to become the standard medical text on venereal disease, which he had observed and treated widely during his military service. In addition, his early experience in Lisbon, and his army service, sparked an interest in public health and hygiene. He wrote a treatise about the hygiene of urban latrines and air pollution, and stressed the importance of proper ventilation of hospitals and prisons.

During his years in Russia, using the services of the commercial caravans that travelled between St Petersburg and Peking, Sanches established and maintained contact with the Jesuit missionaries to the Chinese court. He was one of the first Europeans to study, and introduce in his practice, the Chinese use of medicinal plants.

In addition to his catholic (if not Catholic) interest in all aspects of medicine, Sanches was passionate about a broad range of subjects, which brought him into contact, in person and through correspondence, with leading humanists of the Enlightenment. He wrote articles for inclusion in Diderot’s Encyclopaedia; he advised on educational reform in Portugal and Russia; he studied physics, history and politics. The subjects of his nine substantial written works, and scores of papers, ranged from a theory on how the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755 had improved the climate, to an in-depth study of the politics, economics and culture of Portuguese America, uncompleted at his death, and from guidelines on the administration of justice to plans for the establishment of a school of agriculture. His writings on the education of the young formed the basis of the Royal College of Noblemen in Lisbon. By the time he died, Sanches was a member of the St Petersburg Imperial Academy of Sciences, the Lisbon Royal Academy of Sciences, the Paris Academy of Sciences and the Royal Society of Medicine. (It may not have escaped your notice that, as with The Times, British academic institutions feel no need to denote their nationality. The same is, of course, true of postage stamps. In many fields, it is the reward for getting there first.)

Today, his bust stands on a pedestal in the square in front of the Câmara – the municipality building or town hall – of Penamacor. It portrays an ascetic man, deep in contemplative thought, uninterested in the physical pleasures of this world. I have certainly found no record anywhere of his personal life, nor any mention of a wife or children. When Catherine II granted Sanches a coat of arms, the inscription selected was Non sibi, sed toti gentium, which even some of us who were fortunate enough to receive a classical education in the finest tradition of 1960s’ Britain may need reminding translates as Not for himself, but born for everyone.

Sanches left his library of over 2000 books to the St Petersburg Imperial Academy of Sciences. He also left 27 volumes of unpublished manuscripts, which were printed posthumously.

And I feel good if I can manage to finish writing my blog post by Monday evening, which I have done! Never mind: I bet Sanches never solved a crossword in just over 11 minutes.

If you are more interested in Micha’el and Tslil’s 21st Century adventures than Sanches’ 18th Century ones, don’t forget that you can follow, subscribe to, like and even disseminate their youtube channel.